(An onsen is a natural hot spring or a resort with a hot spring bath inside)
Most ryokans have ‘onsens’ - which are public bathing areas, sometimes filled with heated mineral water, and sometimes fed by local hot springs. You will be provided with a small and large towel. Onsens are gender segregated (women’s and men’s).
When you enter the change rooms, there will be lockers for your clothing. Find a shower stall and rinse down well, using the soap and small towel provided. Then find your way into the onsen for a quiet soak. It’s important to be mindful of other women using the onsen and to keep voices low. These are quiet spaces.
When we ask this question to guides and hotels, we can get some vague answers. And the reason is that the rules in Japan can be vague!
Traditionally visitors with tattoos are not allowed in Japanese onsen because of an old association with organized crime.
Tourism is becoming more important to the economy and many places recognize that foreigners with tattoos are not associated to organized crime and will be willing to make exceptions.
Many small boutique hotels have an onsen and often it could be just our group staying there. In which case partaking in an onsen will not be an issue. If there are locals using the onsen it would be best not to go in. And if in doubt ask your guide or the hotel. If there is a sign specifically stating no tattoos please respect that.
The onsen is lovely, but if you have tattoos please don’t let this be a deterrent. Japan is amazing even without an onsen!